On the back cape bodice, instead of a vertical seam that is taken in 3⁄4 of an inch as it nears the waistline (the angle this would create in ordinary jackets), this excess fabric has been “worked” into the seams joining the skirt to the cape bodice.This angle, resulting in a dart, has been switched much as the hands of a clock are turned around a center point.
The center back triangle pattern piece at the neck is necessary to add width for movement of the head and neck. The upper rounded bias section of the front collar has to be stretched for the collar to fit the neck. The stretching allows the collar edge to stand away from the body.