An example: In 1936 Charles James designed his iconic Grosgrain Cape in Paris as part of a series of capes, coats, and jackets constructed from 18- inch millinery grosgrain. This evening cape wasmade from 22 yards of fabric and had features that distinguished
this design from his early career as typically Charles James. It has no lining or finished seam edges.The lack of a lining and unfinished seams allowan- ces, which were avantgarde at the time, gave a fluid movement to garments made from such a stiff fabric. An inside belt held the cape to the body, front and back, allowing the sides to have a flo- wing motion when worn. Instead of side sections to join the front to the back, a large skirted cape is attached. The skirt falls in carefully calculated godets. In the front, there are two slits in seams placed, at a particular convenient posi- tion to permit passage of the arms.