Charles James constructed his cages using fabric-covered metal boning. When constructing a cage, the dress form must be stabilized on sturdy card- board or a wooden panel, large enough for the planned hemline extended to the floor. The template of the hemline on the floor can be circular, oval, or
any other shape. Cut strips of oaktag paper into 1 cm (3⁄8 inch) widths. Start by placing a strip around the waist, divide equally, and mark for the number of ribs desired to create the shape. The more ribs there are, the greater the control one has over the shape. The floor template is marked in the same manner as the waist. Punch holes in the waist strip at the marked rib points. Using strips long enough to reach the floor from the waist, punch a hole at one
end of each strip. Affix the ribs to the waist strip by inserting envelope pins in the holes. Attach the end of the rib to the floor template, either with push- pins or staples at the corresponding points on the waist strip. Starting at the waist, horizontal or diagonal strips are extended around the vertical ribs to the floor. When attached, they must lie flat against one another to create a smooth surface. Allow the strips to follow their own path to the floor. Punch holes in the ribs where they intersect and insert envelope pins to stabilize the cage.