Text: 1.First there is an idea of a piece of clothing or a detail. In this case a work-sweater.
1.
First there is an idea of a piece of clothing or a detail. In this case a work-sweater.
Being a young designer I try to find my practice in the aftermath of the thing that is called Diet Prada.
Diet Prada is an Instagram account, which began by exposing designers copying each other, but has since transformed into a disruptive media source that provides commentary on a wide range of fashion industry issues.
Their revelations are very important, but the movement could develop towards „destroying freedom of expression and invention in the name of a distorted idea of freedom of expression“1
To handle this topic I developed a methodical and naively subjective structure for my current collection.
This structure is the subject of this component to the dynamic archive, as it is also build on sharing and exchanging ideas.
1 Angelo Flaccavento for Vogue Italia
First there is an idea of a piece of clothing or a detail. In this case a work-sweater.
This piece is found second hand. In this case it used to be my grandfathers
the chosen piece of clothing: grandfathers work-sweater
The details of interest are saved and photographed.
detail
The piece get's cut up in it's pattern-pieces and the pattern is copied.
Then a tool, in this case tarot cards, are used to change the pattern.
I chose Tarot cards to manipulate the patterns, because of a curiosity with Christian Dior. In 2017 the master fashion studio visited the Dior exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. I was wondering about Christian Dior's approach to woman's clothes. As a man he made it his duty to dress woman to his taste, because he did not like their post-war appearances. Dior took a hammer and modified the female silhouette by smashing the mannequins waist and making it smaller. Further he was fascinated by female fortune tellers and that was interesting to me because witchcraft's supposed to be the first act of the patriarchy to suppress women. Also it was or is a trend, that young woman use witchcraft rituals or tools such as tarot to celebrate female attributes, that witchcraft embodies.
There is some freedom in the possibilities of the modification of the pattern.
in this case:
Four cards are placed to each of the pieces. The number of each card could be assigned to any of the seams or edges. When this decision is made, one of the length gets chosen and all the other seams or edges are altered proportionally.
and it was adhered to the details of interest in this or other pieces of clothing in the collection. In this case, the zippers are in an angle, that has been a detail in another piece of clothing from the collection.
The new pattern is now manufactured with a textile, that has also been used before (in this case white cotton bed sheets),
and with details in the finishing that have been used in one of the second hand clothes, that have been saved and photographed.
the piece in the collection
THIS WAY EACH PIECE COMES WITH A STORY BUT WITH TAROT CARDS, THE EXCHANGE OF DETAILS AND PRE-USED TEXTILES ALSO GETS FED WITH CONTEXT ALONG THE PROCESS.